Saturday 26 April 2014

Copenhagen- Kobenhaven

Easter weekend is a national holiday in England, so we used the long weekend to visit Copenhagen.  It was beautiful weather and a relaxing weekend.

We flew from Manchester which takes us 2 hours to reach from Haxey, and the flight to Copenhagen was an hour and 45 minutes. Denmark is nice as most signs are in Danish and English. We took a train into the center of the city and walked 4 blocks to our accommodations in an older grand hotel across from the city hall.

City Hall
We had a nice room on the 4th floor overlooking the roof tops to the north. After being there a few days we could identify the church or palace spires we saw from our window.

We both knew nothing of Danish history, so Friday afternoon we started our weekend in the Danish National Museum’s ancient history section. It’s always fun to see history from another countries point of view.  We kept seeing references to the fact the Vikings were given a bad reputation. They really weren’t as bad as portrayed as they opened up a lot of trading route and integrated cultures as well as established robust cities in previously lightly populated areas such as the York area of England.

John relaxing in front of Palace Hotel
Like all of Europe, museums close early.  We knew we would have to come back another time. We returned to our hotel and had drinks on the front walk over looking city hall. It was warm, sunny, with no wind unlike England.

For dinner we asked a desk clerk at the hotel where she would go. She recommended Restaurant Puk serving traditional Danish food. We’re very glad she called and made a reservation, as while we ate probably 30 people were turned away. We ordered a dinner that was a sampler of traditional foods.  It was delicious, gluten free, and we were stuffed. We had pickled herring, dilled cod, sushi like salmon, liver pate, roast pork, red cabbage (like my Danish grandmother made), and new potatoes.
First of three trays brought out for dinner.
Being the Easter weekend I had read that all shops would be closed Thursday, Friday, Sunday and Monday.  We were just hoping the museums and palaces would be open. As it happens the main museums were open and we saw everything we’d planned to see.
Rosenborg Castle
Our first stop Saturday was Rosenborg Castle.  This was a summer palace built by the Danish King Christian IV. The next three generations lived in the castle until King Frederik IV built Frederiksberg Castle in 1710. 
John and Kathy in Long Hall or throne room
One of three silver lions from 1670 in throne room
Rosenborg has always belonged to the monarchy so the treasures inside were intact and the tapestries, that we hear about in other castles, were actually hanging in place on all the walls.
Tapestries on wall behind decorations
t was very nice to see a castle/palace from 1606 as it would have looked and been used. The basement now holds the crown jewels.
We walked across the old town to the harbor to see the little mermaid statue.  I must say it reminded me of my first impressions of the Mona Lisa, smaller than imagined. I assumed it was in the middle of the harbor.  It is right next to the shore.
Mermaid in Copenhagen harbor
After joining the throngs viewing the statue, we boarded a hop-on hop-off canal tour. It was nice in that it explained buildings along the canal and history of the town. 
Nyhaven Canal
Custom House tower is entwined dragon tails.
Copenhagen is an area of islands that has been joined together by bridges. We also saw areas we were not going to get to by walking. We hopped off at the Christiansborg Palace on Castle Island. Crossing the bridge to the Island a very unusual sculpture appeared in the canal.
Merman with 7 sons
Christiansborg Palace is where the parliament sits and the Supreme court is found.  The royal family does not live here anymore, but they do use it for state occasions.
Looking at palace through 1167 original gates

The palace was originally built in 1167. It burned down in 1794, was rebuilt and burned in 1884. A lot of artifacts and treasurers have been lost.  The stable remains from the first castle and the church from the second. The current castle was finished in 1928.
1928 palace - home to parliament, supreme court, state functions

The first castle was built on the ruins of a bishop’s abbey.  The foundations of the original abbey were found when the last castle was being built, and you can see the excavation of those ruins under the castle.
Abbey ruins under the Christiansborg Palace
 

Stable- horses and coaches found here.
The stable is very opulent and still in use.  Horses are kept to pull the royal carriages when needed.  They are trained daily either on the grounds or pulling coaches through the town

 
Kathy in stable
.For dinner we got a second recommendation from our favorite desk clerk. We ate at Tight, a restaurant run by a Canadian and an Australian. Delicious. Following dinner we went to the English Anglican church for Easter Vigil service. It was a nice service, but I was surprised as only 20 people attended.  The choir was bigger than the congregation.
St.Albans Church
Sunday we finished the Danish National Museum, hopped on the canal boat to do the section we’d missed the day before, walked to the Amalienborg Palace where the queen and royal family currently live, and finished the day at Nyhaven. 
Amalieborg Palace is four separate building built around a common court.
Dinner was at Cap Horn Restaurant overlooking the canal harbor. It was the most touristy place we ate, but fun to watch all the people walking by as well as everyone enjoying their boats. Lots of beer drinking and sun bathing.
John at dinner in Nyhaven
Monday on the way to the train station we stopped at a bakery that was recommended for its gluten free breads.  That is what I bought and John purchased three kinds of Danish pastry.  The hotel had only served French pastry at breakfast. We have both enjoyed our purchases.

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